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Her famous toilette ritual was described by Madame Campan as a masterpiece of etiquette.27 The first private toilette included the washing of face and body, the application of whitening face paint or powder, and the fixing and powdering of hair. The public toilette began at noon, and was all about makeup and final toucheswith the application of rouge being the most popular to attend.

In her biography of Marie Antoinette, Antonia Fraser notes that at this point, the process became very complicated, as anyone (anyone with the Rights of Entry, that is) could appear at any time, and had to be greeted appropriately, delaying the whole process. To further slow things down, the queen could not reach for anything, and had to wait until she was handed the next styling item. When the rouge was applied, in huge precise circles of a color not far from scarlet,28 it was far from natural-looking, in keeping with the upper-class fashion (red, as well as rouge, was an important symbol to aristocratic men and women, as it quickly set them apart from the masses and indicated their high status).29 After her makeup was finished, the men in the audience left, and Marie Antoinette could (finally) be dressed.

It may seem completely old-fashioned now, but the court was dependent on outward symbols of status, and Marie Antoinette’s mother pushed her to take on these symbols before she became dauphine and later the queen. And it worked: Her strict toilette regime created styles that infiltrated the toilettes of women around Europe and helped secure her precarious position in the French court.31 By the 1780s, though, Marie Antoinette was using her powder sparingly and her rouge had all but disappeared.32 Although she was merely following the emerging trend toward naturalism in Europe, she was inadvertently shedding all the outward symbols that signaled her status and disrupted the system of Versailles. The toilette ritual changed with each new prison during her incarceration: Before her execution, all that was left of the vast and complex toilette, according to Fraser, was a box of powder, a big fine spongeand a little box of pomade.

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