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Fur fell out of vogue after the 1980s, no doubt fueled in part by animal activistsattacks on fur wearers but mostly because skins had simply fallen out of vogue. In 1988 there were more than a thousand mink farms in the U.S. By 1997, there were about half that number.

But in the late 1990s, fur began to make a comeback, showing up in a number of fashion shows, not just as coats but also as decorative trim on everything from dresses to shoes. Suddenly, Fashion Victims who considered themselves moderately anti-fur were faced with the difficult choice between following fashion or their consciencesand in many cases, fashion won.

Supermodel Naomi Campbell, a spokesperson for People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) in the early 1990s, now wears fur and has publicly criticized PETA. Leather, while historically less disputed than fur, since most of it comes from farming by-products, has also been the focus of greater attention in recent years. In 2000, PETA protesters convinced the Gap to stop using leather from cows that are cruelly killed for the black market in India. Still, sales of leather apparel grew about 8.5 percent in 2001 twice the rate of regular apparel, according to market research firm NPD Group.
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