PATCH WITH APPLIQUE

Cut a piece of fabric into as many small triangles (or other shape) as there are buttonholes on the garment. Reinforce the triangles on the wrong sides with lightweight fusible interfacing. Position and pin a triangle over the portion of the buttonhole cut past the end bar, and sew it in place with tiny fell stitches or with machine topstitching (a satin stitch gives a clean, attractive finish). Add the remaining triangles to the other buttonholes in the same way. This solution will look like a planned embellishment rather than a fixed mistake.

CONVERT TO SNAPS

Sew the buttonholes closed, by hand with a small whipstitch or by machine with a zigzag stitch; use thread that matches the buttonhole stitching. Extend the stitching to repair the cut area. Mark snap positions on the garment opening underlap. Sew half of a snap closure at each marking on the underlap. Sew the remaining halves of the snap closures on the overlap’s wrong side, atop each buttonhole. Sew decorative buttons atop each buttonhole on the right side.

Hot Patterns 1185 jacket in linen and Named Clothing Alpi Chinos in cotton sateen, fabrics from Banksville Designer Fabrics, Norwalk, Connecticut. Top in cotton shirting from Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores.

This trio has a youthful, sophisticated look. The jacket is hip length and split at center back. It has front and back princess seams, small bust darts, and two-piece sleeves. The V-neck tank has French darts and a curved high/low hemline. The scarf’s triangular ends are joined by a narrow strip. Our tester noticed that the darts are not scaled, so on the smaller sizes check and adjust the darts if necessary. The jacket’s back-neck facing is about 1/4-inch wider at the seamline than the front facing. To cut the scarf in one piece, as suggested, buy an additional 1/2 yard of fabric. Alternatively, add a seam at the back neckline.

STYLE TIP: Each piece is a different length, which makes this trio perfect for layering.

Named Clot hing: Alpi Chinos & Chino Shorts (NamedClothing.com)

This slim-cut pant or short sits below the natural waist, is fitted through the hips, and has narrow legs. It has a four-piece curved waistband with a button or hook-and-eye fastening, belt loops, a fly front with a zipper shield, side-front slant pockets, back-waist darts, and rounded patch pockets. The short version ends at mid-thigh. The pattern comes without seam and hem allowances. The recommended seam allowance is 3/s inch, but our tester recommends widening the side seam and inseam seam allowances so you have room to play with the fit. This design is ideal for light- to medium-weight wovens without stretch.

Tested by Jenny Freedman, Soquel, California

Take a 360-degree view of this three-piece ensemble.

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PATCH WITH APPLIQUE

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